Although Big Bend is a large park, you can see most of the park in 3 days. Maximize your time by following this itinerary.
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We went to Big Bend National Park as part of a larger road trip for Spring Break with the kids. They were almost 9 and 11 at the time, which was a perfect age for Big Bend.
Big Bend National Park is known for its “splendid isolation” and that’s truly how the area feels. However, if you go during peak seasons, as we did, there will be quite a few people around as you hike the more popular trails.
Due to the high volume of traffic, we weren’t able to get into the Chisos Basin area. If you want to add that to the trip, you can still do this in the three-day timeframe. Our first day was only the evening as we drove to the area on day one. And on day three we were only in the park until lunchtime then went to an attraction outside of the park.
Entrance sign for Big Bend National Park
Getting There
Big Bend is way down at the southernmost tip of Western Texas. The park’s southern border is defined by the Rio Grande River which also separates Mexico from the United States. The closest airports are hours away by car, so you will need a rental car if you are flying to Texas.
Since we live in the Houston area, we were able to go to Big Bend on a road trip through the state. Otherwise, the closest airport is Odessa/Midland, followed by El Paso and San Antonio.
Small plane flying overhead along I-10
Best Time to Go
The park is in the Chihuahuan Desert and gets the extreme temperatures you would expect in a desert climate. In the summer, the temperatures reach dangerously high levels which makes hiking nearly impossible during the day. On the other hand, in the winter, the park will get snow and ice, especially in the Chisos Mountains and at Emory Peak.
If you can go in early spring or late fall, you’ll have the best weather. It may still be a little chilly (depending on your definition of chilly) in the morning and evening but will warm up quickly during the daytime.
Day One
Drive to Terlingua, Texas
For us, this was a 10-hour drive from the Houston area. Whether you are road-tripping or flying into a Texas airport and driving a rental car, you need to plan that at least half of your day will be taken up by travel.
Check in to Hotel in Terlingua, Texas
The closest place to stay outside of Big Bend National Park is in Terlingua, Texas. It’s a very small town with a few hotels and many camping areas. You’ll also find fuel, a small grocery store, and some restaurants in the area.
We chose Big Bend Station Inn & RV for our home base while adventuring in Big Bend National Park. The rooms were a good price, we had what we needed, the staff was very friendly, and there was a gas station/convenience store/restaurant/laundromat in the building right next to ours.
Dinner at Big Bend Station
For dinner, we went to the restaurant in the building next door to the hotel. They have nightly specials plus a regular menu. Tyler and Ryan split a large cheese pizza and Justin and I both got the fried rice special.
Delicious chicken fried rice
The boys were excited for pizza
Maverick Entrance Sign Photo
On our way into the park in the evening, we stopped at the entrance sign to take our family photo in front of it. We started doing this a few years ago to have a photo at every park as we go. A few were missed at the beginning of our National Park travels, but we make a point of it now.
The boys were reluctant to stop, but I told them if we just did it now, we wouldn’t have to tomorrow. Also, there were a few other cars pulled over at the sign so we knew there would be someone to take the photo for us.
Stars Over Big Bend Night Sky Program
When I started researching the park and the Ranger Programs, I saw that the Stars Over Big Bend would only be offered the night we drove in. It’s only done once per week and the clocks were set to change the next night meaning the program had to move to a later time to accommodate the later sunset.
During the program, which was behind the Panther Junction Visitor Center, the ranger talked about what constellations we could see. He also described light pollution, how to prevent it, and how it harmed the animals. Once the talk was over, after pointing out many of the stars we could see as the sky fully darkened, they had two telescopes set up that we could look through. That night they were sighted on Jupiter.
Stars over the Visitor Center building
The Night Sky
So many stars!
Day One Map
Day Two
Maverick Entrance
We again entered through the Maverick Entrance which is the entrance on the west side of the park for our first full day in the park. This is the closest to Terlingua where we are staying. Even though it was Spring Break, one of their peak seasons, there wasn’t a line into the park. We started early, though, arriving at 8:30AM and making our way to the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive turnoff on the right side of the road.
Lower Burro Mesa Pour-Off Trail
The first stop of the day was the Lower Burro Mesa Pour-Off Trail. It’s a long name for a fairly short out-and-back trail, but we enjoyed this walk. The first part is through a well-defined dirt path that leads to a river washout area. Once you get to the creekbed, turn towards your right and follow it to the end. You’ll come up to the pour-off which is a 100-foot vertical cliff face. Most of the year, this is dry, but you can see where the water has eroded the rocks. The boys found a way to climb just a little bit up the cliff face but couldn’t get very far.
First view of the desert on the trail
Overlooking the desert mountains
Walking along the trail
Reaching the pouroff
The boys climbed as far as they could
Lower Burro Mesa Pour-Off
Lower Burro Mesa Pour-Off
Castolon Visitor Center
The first visitor center we stopped at was the Castolon Visitor Center. It is about ¾ of the way down Ross Maxwell Drive with a turnoff on the left side of the road as you head south. Castolon is a historic site with buildings that were there as early as the 1900s. Unfortunately, a fire occurred in Mexico in 2019 that jumped the Rio Grande and caught fire to the visitor center and store.
Some of the other buildings were saved, though, and a few temporary buildings were erected to continue business in the park. When you park, you’ll see the remnants of the old building in front of you. Behind the vehicles is a temporary outhouse with two restrooms.
You have to walk down a small pathway to the left of the entrance road to find the actual visitor center. We went in here to talk to the Park Ranger about the safety of hiking in the canyon so close to the Mexican border. He said they haven’t had any issues there for a long time and it was a pretty safe hike, even with the kids. We also got the stamp in our National Parks Passport Books and a Junior Ranger book for Ryan.
On the way back to the vehicle, we stopped at the small store that’s in a temporary building in Castolon. I was cold, so I purchased a Big Bend beanie cap and the boys both bought a stuffed animal.
Santa Elena Canyon Overlook
Before descending into the canyon, we stopped at the overlook pullout for Santa Elena. Honestly, I was a bit underwhelmed at this overlook. You can see into the canyon, but it’s hard to see the river from here. We only stayed for a minute then moved on to the trailhead for Santa Elena Canyon.
A look at the canyon from the overlook point
Santa Elena Canyon Overlook
Santa Elena Canyon Trail
The Santa Elena Canyon Trail was one of my favorites in the park. We all thoroughly enjoyed ourselves on this hike. Parking was starting to fill up as we arrived, but we found one of the last few spots in the lot. The trail starts on a small boardwalk that takes you down a dirt path to the Rio Grande River. I’ve always heard the river isn’t that impressive for being a country border, but it was still neat. The water was gently flowing through the area and there were quite a few people putting their feet in the water and skipping rocks.
As we got down to the riverside, I told the boys this was the closest they’d ever been to Mexico! We got close once before when going to South Padre Island, Texas, but not close enough to see the other country. I watched a few people hopping some rocks across the river and made a comment that they were basically walking into Mexico. So we decided to do the same. We hopped across the rocks, took a few photos in Mexico, and then walked right back over to the United States side. Don’t worry, I did have our US Passports with us just in case we needed them since I knew the park was on the border.
Once we were done at the riverside, we started on the trail. The first spot crosses Terlingua Creek to a steep climb up the riverbed. Luckily for us, at that time, there was no water flowing through Terlingua Creek. When the water is high, this can be a more dangerous hike because of the creek crossing.
After following the first path to a set of concrete steps to another dirt path, we walked alongside the river for most of the trail. At the end, you get into the canyon with a view upriver. There were so many spots to stop along the way and take in the beautiful scenery.
Santa Elena Canyon Trail was the longest trail we did in the park at 1.7 miles round trip. We didn’t want to do any of the day hikes because we didn’t have the equipment for it and we wanted to see a lot of the park instead of just one trail.
A look into the canyon and the Rio Grande
Other side of the Rio Grande
Walking on rocks across the Rio Grande
Relaxing on a rock
In front of the Rio Grande
The Rio Grande turns a bend outside of the canyon
Santa Elena Canyon
Santa Elena River Access
On the way back north on Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, we stopped at a picnic area called Santa Elena River Access. There was only one other group of people there so we were able to use one of the picnic tables for our packed lunch.
Just past the picnic tables is the Rio Grande River. We started to walk down the small path there, but we quickly turned around because there was too much horse poo along the trail to make it worth it.
Pretty purple flowers at the picnic area
Walking on the nearby River Trail
Another view of the Rio Grande
Bypass Chisos Basin
The plan was to go to the Chisos Basin area next. As we turned off the main road we were met almost immediately with a long line of vehicles that wasn’t moving. After sitting there for about 5 minutes I was able to flag down one of the Park Rangers to ask what was going on. He said that parking areas were completely full so they were letting one car in as one car left. We hadn’t seen a single car leave yet so we decided our time would be better spent elsewhere in the park.
A few things to do and see in the Chisos Basin if you can get in there:
- Chisos Mountain Lodge
- Window Trail
- Chisos Basin Campground
- Chisos Basin Visitor Center
Panther Junction Visitor Center
After turning back onto the main park road, Gano Springs, we continued further into the park with our next stop at the Panther Junction Visitor Center. We had been here the night before for the Stars Over Big Bend program, but the building was closed.
While in there Ryan earned his Junior Ranger badge (after completing the Panther Path outside the building). He also told us about the patches that can be earned by completing the Panther Path, Hot Springs Historic Trail, and Emory Peak. Unfortunately, he was out of the patches there.
I also got my Passport Book stamp for the visitor center and I bought a Christmas ornament at the gift shop while the boys bought a stuffed animal.
Panther Path Trail
Just outside the Panther Junction Visitors Center is the Panther Path. It’s a very short easy trail that goes through many of the plants that are found in the park. There’s a placard in front of each with information about the plant and how it was used in the past and is still used today.
Working on the Junior Ranger book
We love the Junior Ranger program
Creosote Bush
Purplish Prickly Pear
Nipple Cactus
Getting sworn in as a Junior Ranger
Panther Path
Fossil Discovery Exhibit
Our last stop in the park for the day was the Fossil Discovery Exhibit. Justin has always loved dinosaurs so when he saw that there were dinosaur fossils in the park, we had to go to the exhibit.
The exhibit is a covered outdoor exhibit that walks you through the ancient history of the Big Bend area. There are fossils and bones from many of the animals that used to call the area home.
Just past the exhibit is a small paved walkway that leads up to a plateau with views of the entire area.
Standing with tall bone fossils
Tyler in the head of a crocodilian fossil replica
Ryan in the head of a crocodilian fossil replica
View from the overlook mesa
Our family at the desert overlook
One more view of the desert
Fossil Discovery Exhibit
Bluebonnets
All throughout the day, as we were driving through the park, there were wildflowers along the road that looked like Bluebonnets, the state flower of Texas. I wanted to stop and take a picture with them but we couldn’t ever find any at a pullout.
The road up to the fossil exhibit (and the rarely-used north entrance to the park) had very little traffic. When I saw a large patch of the flowers I had Justin pull over so we could take just a few photos with them.
Beautiful lupine bluebonnets
Me with the bluebonnets
Ryan and Tyler with the bluebonnets
Tyler with the bluebonnets
Maverick Entrance
Again, since our hotel was in Terlingua, we used Maverick Junction as our exit point.
Anniversary Dinner
Justin and I joke around that we did not plan well for our wedding anniversary. Now that we have kids in school, we have realized our anniversary almost always falls during Spring Break. That evening, we got some food for the boys in the hotel room then walked to the restaurant next door to get dinner together.
The hotel has a picnic area set up which happens to be close to the door to the room we were in. So we decided to get the food as takeout and sat out there together with our takeout food for an anniversary dinner.
Anniversary dinner together
Day Two Map
Day Three
Maverick Entrance
Although the entrance was not manned at the early hour we went into the park, we were still able to get in. The park is open 24 hours. We were in the park by 4:30 AM on our last day in Big Bend.
Stargazing & Sunrise at Sotol Vista
Justin had the idea, after going to the night sky program, to get up very early, pack breakfast and all of our blankets, and go into the park to do some stargazing. The boys and I were a little reluctant at first but it was an amazing experience.
We drove to the Sotol Vista parking area and laid a blanket on the sidewalk just in front of the vehicle. I decided we needed to stay close to the vehicle in case a nocturnal animal came upon us. To save our neck muscles from the strain, we all laid down on the blanket to gaze at the stars.
After about 5 minutes our eyes had adjusted to the dark and we were all in awe of what we could see in the night sky. Both of the boys saw multiple shooting stars, which they’d never seen before. We spent about an hour laying out watching the stars, bundled up in our jackets and all of the blankets we had!
Once we were getting too cold and tired, we all went into the car, warmed it up for a few minutes, then took a nap. Justin and I set our watch alarms for about 30 minutes before sunrise.
We woke up and had breakfast in the vehicle and watched the sun rise up over the mountains. It was a great way to start our last day in the park.
The most stars the boys have ever seen
Trying to stay warm while stargazing
Sunrise over the Chisos Mountains
Rio Grande Village Visitor Center
Today we decided to drive all the way to the end of the park and work our way back. The Rio Grande Village Visitor Center is at the end of Park Route 12, at the Mexican border. After getting our Passport Book stamp, we discussed the Hot Springs Trail and the associated patch with the Park Ranger. We were delighted when she said she had those and also found a few of the Panther Path patches, so Ryan was about to get both once we did the Hot Springs Trail.
Hot Springs Historic Trail
Before going to the park, I read about the natural hot springs along the river and that it was open to swimming. Then, when I looked at the expected temperatures, I thought there was no way any of us would be getting into swimsuits out there because it would be too chilly.
Well, I was wrong. Tyler and Ryan were wishing they had their swimsuits, or at least shorts on, so they could enjoy the water. As it was, the three of us took our shoes off and rolled our pants as high as we could to at least put our feet in the warm water.
This is near the very beginning of the historic trail, so we continued on after that. The first half of the trial goes through the trees alongside the Rio Grande River. The second half climbed up the mountainside a bit and was in direct sun the entire walk back on this loop trail. It was getting really hot up there, so we went through most of the water we brought with us.
Old buildings near the historic trail
Petroglyphs on the cliff walls
Lots of bees in the area
Standing in the Hot Spring
A different section of the Rio Grande
The dirt road that leads to and from the trailhead
Hot Springs Historic
Rio Grande Village Visitor Center
Ryan completed the questions in his Junior Ranger book about the Historic Hot Springs Trail, so we went back to the Visitor Center for him to get his two patches.
Ryan got his patches for the Panther Trail and Historic Hot Springs Trail
Rio Grande Village Store
Since we went through most of our water and weren’t sure what else we were going to do for the day, we stopped at the store in the Rio Grande Campground to grab some water and a couple of snacks.
Boquillas Canyon Overlook
The last place we wanted to check out was Boquillas Canyon. We learned about the Port of Entry at Boquillas too late to be able to go into Mexico while we were on the trip. Had we known, we may have done it. But this was our last day in the park and the port was closed.
Before doing the Boquillas Canyon Trail (which is still on the United States side), we stopped at the overlook. You can see the town of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, across the river. It was one thing to see the cliff faces of Mexico when we were in the Santa Elena Canyon but it became more real that we were looking at another country when we could see the buildings of a small town.
The Rio Grande with the Mexican town of Boquillas in the distance
The Rio Grande
Canoes on the Mexican side of the Rio Grande
Boquillos Canyon Overlook
Drive Back to Maverick Entrance
With all the hiking we had done in the last two days, on top of getting up very early, and knowing we still had three more National Parks to go to on this trip, we decided to call it quits at Big Bend. The drive back through the park was still a gorgeous drive with all of the varying landscapes. We ended the night by watching the sunset from the hotel common area.
Going through a tunnel on the way back
Amazing desert sunset
Day Three Map
Other Trails We Considered
If you have more time in Big Bend, there are some other trails to consider that we have heard are some of the most popular trails for those wanting a longer hike. We stuck to an easy hike most of the time to make the most of our two days.
- Lost Mine Trail
- Rio Grande Village Nature Trail
- Window View Trail